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The main town is Puerto Barrios, a former United Fruit Company banana port and, for tourists, the departure point for boats to Livingston and trips to the area's other major attractions. Castillo de San Felipe is a fortress built in 1652 as a defense against pirates. When pirates left the area, it became a prison and today it is a well-preserved tourist attraction. Lake Izabal, the largest lake in Guatemala, is surrounded by mountains and full of perch, tarpon and other game fish.
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| GETTING THERE |
BUS:
Regular buses arrive from Guatemala City.
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| EATING AND DRINKING |
The African Place Restaurant serves a variety of exotic and local dishes. It is also good for breakfast. From the pier, follow the main street up the hill through the center of town and then, make a sharp left at Cafetin Lili. If you have trouble, just ask, everybody will know where it is. The building is one of the strangest in Guatemala, with distinctly Moorish motive. Sitting on one of the outdoor tables, you can watch Livingston go by. The banana pancakes here are the best in the world! The orange juice and coffee are excellent too.
On the road beside the river are a couple of other good restaurants. The Rigoletto Pizzeria, operated by the talented cook Maria, has a menu of Italian, east Indian, Chinese and other dishes, with meat and vegetarian selections.
However, if you're looking for a good lunch or dinner, any one of the many restaurants located on the main drag are good. Just use your judgment and instincts. The Bahia Azul is particularly good. The fish, soups and piña coladas are delicious, even though you certainly won't be the only traveler here. Sit outside and watch the town in action.
If you're a vegetarian, La Casa Rosada is another very enjoyable riverside spot. They always have a vegetarian alternative, and the restaurant is situated right on the water of the Rio Dulce. It is not cheap, but it's worthy if you want to splurge on a really good meal. Dinner reservations are recommended.
The dining room of the Hotel Tucán Dugú is the most expensive spot in town; a good, complete dinner with drinks.
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| RECOMMENDED SIGHTSEEING & ACTIVITIES |
LAKE IZABAL:
The largest of Guatemala's lakes, is a gentle expanse of water hemmed in by the Sierra de las Manas to the south, and the Santa Cruz range to the north. The waters of the lake are rich in perch, tarpon and other fish. Unique to the lake is the fresh-water manatee, or sea cow, a mammal that weighs up to a ton.
CASTILLO DE SAN FELIPE:
The San Felipe Castle, named after Philip II of Spain, is located on a small peninsula, at the point where Lake Izabal joins the Rio Dulce river. The fortification was built in 1643 to defend the Atlantic coast of the Kingdom of Guatemala against constant incursions of English pirates and corsairs. Its towers, patios, rooms and dungeons are conserved as a sample of military architecture of the Colonial period. Because of its historical importance, the castle was declared a National Monument in 1955.
QUIRIGUA:
Located in the banana region of Izabal, Quiriguá is one of the smallest Mayan cities but one of the most notable due to its splendid monuments. These include Stele E, which is the largest block of stone ever carved by the Mayas, over 30 feet in height. The site includes temples and four rocks carved in the form of mythological animals. Together, they are one of the most beautiful expressions of Maya culture, for which reason Quiriguá was declared a Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO
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